Florence: Day 1

origamiunicorn ♦ July 31, 2019 ♦ Leave a comment

We said goodbye to Athens in the morning and then took a couple of short flights to get to Florence. We could see Brunelleschi’s Dome from the air as we landed. A short cab ride and we arrived at our building. Our room is on the 4th floor with lovely balcony view.

Balcony view of Brunelleschi’s Dome

Another view from our room

We found a specialty grocery, Pegna del 1860, and bought some snacks to have in our room. Cheese, crackers and jam and then a one block walk to the Duomo. We had tickets to climb to the dome at 6:30.

I have some pictures below but none can come close to describing this experience. To get to the top of the dome, you must climb 463 stone steps. These narrow, steep and often winding staircases were made for the workers who maintained the cathedral. The way is dotted with tiny windows looking out at Florence.

Steps inside the Duomo

More steps

About halfway up, you leave the dark stairs and come out inside the dome where there is a walkway around the circumference. You can look down for a dizzying view of the cathedral below. You can look across and above at the frescoes painted in the inside of the dome.

Looking across at the dome

Top the dome

Closeup of Hell

The frescoes include horribly disturbing images of Hell. My legs already felt weak from vertigo and the imagery made me feel slightly queasy. However, the magnitude and beauty of the engineering and architecture overwhelmed me with joy. I got choked up, I laughed with happiness, I clapped my hands. I attempted a couple of pictures but they don’t come close to capturing it.

After walking around part of the circumference we went back into the network of stairs. At this point the path goes between the inner and outer domes and then up to the cupola on top. I was afraid to go up the last bit to the exposed area in top so I hung back and waited, while Sarah ventured up. A kind man stopped to talk to me on his way down. He assured me that there was room to move around away from the edge. He said, “you came all this way, maybe just try a quick look?” That convinced me and I climbed the last stairs and gingerly stepped out onto the top of the dome. The view was stunning. I have no photos because I was clinging to the stone wall at the center to get as far away from the edge as possible. I looked out, I breathed, I found my sister, and then I went back down to wait for her. She sent me a couple of her photos to add.

View from the top of the Duomo

Easy walk to the bottom with a a second stop inside to look at the frescoes. Back outside we were sweaty and still slightly out of breath. What better way to process the experience than with some gelato? We sat on a bench in front of the dome and talked about what we had experienced.

I am not a very religious person and I found it hard to understand why the graphic and brutal images of Hell would be desirable in a holy place of worship. On the other hand, religious faith inspired artists and engineers to create some of the most beautiful artwork and innovative constructions in the world. Lots to ponder but even as I write this I’m still overwhelmed by the experience of being inside the duomo.

Energized by the Duomo experience and the gelato we decided to walk to Galleria dell’Accademia to try to see Michaelangelo’s David. There was no line and we got in quickly. I was honestly expecting to be underwhelmed. The images of David are so pervasive almost to the point of being a cliche. I figured I’d be too jaded to be as stunned as I ended up being.

When we turned the corner to see it, I stopped and stared. It’s a marble statue that somehow has a life to it. From the veins in the hand to the toenails to the head slightly turned, construction is brilliant and conveys softness and movement and humanity. But even more than that, what struck me was David’s face. He has the slightest look of concern in his brow, perhaps a twinge of adrenaline from fear or victory. There is some speculation as to whether the sculpture was meant to be before or after killing Goliath. He looks contemplative, perhaps strategizing, or realizing that his life and path have now been permanently altered. There is also a hint of disdain, confidence, assurance.