Japan ‘23: Akihabara and Ueno
Eventually I had to make my way back to Tokyo so after Nagano, I stayed two nights in Akihabara. Akihabara is Tokyo at its geekiest, home to multi-story hobby shops selling plastic models and figures for every anime and manga series, cosplay shops, maid cafes, the list goes on. I figured it would be a great place to shop for souvenirs at the end of the trip. It’s also walking distance from Ueno Park, which I wanted to visit on my last trip but didn’t have time to.
I stayed at a cute place called Dormy Inn. The room was tiny but cozy. After I checked in, I ventured out shopping. All along the streets are ladies in cosplay-style maid costumes, handing out flyers for the various maid cafes. On the first trip to Japan, our tour included a trip to a maid cafe. See throwback picture below. The one we went to was very kawaii (cute) – the kids and I got ice cream sundaes and took pictures with the maids. I’m sure not all are like that – it’s a strange concept.
I ducked into a few hobby shops and was immediately over-stimulated. My ultimate destination was Don Quijote, a multi-story gift/dept store that is a Japanese chain. The one in Akihabara has a floor devoted to cosplay, as well as lots of anime merch. I ended up spending over an hour there trying to find the gifts I was looking for. I was completely overwhelmed and exhausted. I found a building with a floor full of restaurants and got lured into an Indian place with a special vegetarian set menu.
The next morning I got up early and had a Japanese breakfast which was included with my hotel room. I had a bowl of rice with pickles, miso soup, tofu with ginger and assorted fruit. It was too early to shop and I wanted to go to Ueno Park. I walked along some of the smaller streets. Even though shops and restaurants were closed, the owners were all out sweeping the sidewalks in front and setting up for the day. I experienced this on my early morning walk in Kanazawa on my last trip. There is something special about being out walking in the city in the early morning, before the crazy crowds. I suppose that’s true in the US as well.
Ueno Park is famous in Japanese literature and art – it’s also one of the most popular spots for Hanami (cherry blossom viewing), though not in the fall. There is a large pond, temples and shrines and a giant zoo. I walked around the pond, and through a couple of the temples. There are quiet, shady paths through the trees, koi fish in the pond, herons and turtles. It’s an interesting contrast with the loud, bright, plastic, neon, electronic chaos of Akihabara.
After a few hours of walking, I started to head back to the shopping areas. I was looking for some particular items and I had a list of places I wanted to go. By about 3 pm, I needed to recharge so I went back to the hotel to nap. Out again after that until I couldn’t focus my brain anymore. See video below for a glimpse.
My last day in Japan was mostly packing. Then taxi to Tokyo station to catch the Narita Express to the airport. I got one last ekiben, which was delicious and one last lemon squash. I’m writing this on the airplane. Right now I’m a little over half way to my connection in Montreal. Sad to have to leave Japan, but also feeling a bit homesick so I guess it’s a bittersweet goodbye. Mostly though, I’m feeling arigatai (thankful) for my good fortune to be able to make this trip, visit with my lovely friends and tour around this beautiful country.
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